On one sunny morning when everyone else was busy fighting, eye for eye, tooth for tooth, one Chukcha and one Kalaaleq (Greenlander) were busy eating reindeer meet, drinking tea made out of tundra berries and making plans for the future.
They were sitting in the Chum, a mobile home made out of reindeer skins; it was cool and pleasant inside. There was no electricity, but there was plenty of light. There was no air-condition, but people were not sweating. Children ran in and out all the time; they were not depressed or bored. They were not missing gadgets.
Today they were learning...
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Chukotka in November is an equation with many variables and two unknowns. First is Time, and second is Space. Both have their own dimensions – incomprehensible to the rest of the world. And there is also such a thing as Luck. And yes, we were lucky again. We did not make it by helicopter, but instead we made it by boat! And why we were lucky? Because our old friends were by our side. And now even more friends are waiting for us on the shore, greeting us and shouting something what we can't hear yet. Hello, Chukotka! We are happy to see you again!
In November the weather changes every other...
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I dream of growing wings, Siberian White Crane wings, so I could fly from one settlement to another, instead of crawling like a snail half buried in mud. All I need is a pair of wings. I know I am asking for a miracle. But even though I don’t have wings, miracles happen on the Road of Life.
There are two types of fire. The fire of war and the fire of love. One brings death. And one brings life. As we travel the Road of Life in Yakutia we meet the local artists who out of garbage, out of barbed wire, out of rusted “nothing” create music, art and everything else that makes people happy.
Yakutian...
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More rains and mosquitoes have arrived. Ignorant, we thought that the conventional gray flying beasts were deadly, but only when the new ones - gigantic orange ones have taken their place, we understood how wrong we were.
While waiting for the weather we busied ourselves inside of Anna's urosa. Urosa is a summer home. It looks like a yurt but is build of wood instead of skins. Anna invested her small pension in it, collecting penny by penny from month to month to buy materials and pay for construction.
And it was all worth it because now Urosa stands high above eveyrthing – the sheds,...
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Don't ask how we got to The Middle World, Orto Doidu, in Khangalas Ulus. It's another story and surely it will be told. But we got there on time, when the first Кitaliks (Siberian White Cranes) were ready for the flight.
If life could always be like that there would be no need in revolutions, feuds, quarrels or disagreements of any kind. There would be no need for soldiers and diplomats; there would only be need in artists.
There are some things that do not grow by being blabbered about. One of them is Yhyakh. You can't make Yhyakh bigger than it is. You can't make it shine more...
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....And now let's talk about orphans.
There is an old legend that goes like this: once upon a time there was an oprhan who was so poor, so neglected, so filthy and so ugly that no one wanted even to look at him. No one loved him, no one at all, so he was forced to live like a shadow, hiding from people behind the kachelofen and picking up seeds after mice. In the winter time, when temperatures dropped to -60C, he lived with Yakutian horses, ouside on the snow. The horses adopted him, raised him as one of their own and gave him some very special powers. When the horse orphan grew up he turned...
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Rain continued for two more days. More water has arrived. And even more was on its way. Is this a normal spring melt? Not so much. Underground fires that broke out two years ago and burnt vasts of taiga stripped the soil that was protecting the permafrost. Late autumn rains fell on the snow, and then early spring rains followed up. And now melting snow has filled the ground fissures and contributed to melting of the subterranean ancient ice. This is one of the reasons why we see today in Taatta exactly what we see. The big picture is: Yakutian permafrost is thawing.
In the morning we could...
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And now we are stuck. The road is gone and the water only keeps rising. Overnight we turned into islanders, even though our beautiful island can not be found on any map.
Living well in Taatta means mastering the art of adaptation. In Taatta it’s a never ending process.
People here adapt through their hard work, loyalty to informal basic values and flamboyant imagination. Praskovia Petrovna Matannakova is 93 years old and she still sews tableware and storage containers out of birch bark, runs a huge family and welcomes unsolicited strangers in the times of Flood.
In excessive...
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Some of us know how the M56 Kolyma Highway (a.k.a the Road of Bones that connects Yakutsk with Magadan via Pole of Cold) can be. In the winter it's a fictional place. One's exhale crackles in the air and the clothes hung on the rope to dry shatter easier than glass. In late January temperatures drop to – 60°C and in late March it gets only a little warmer. Summer lasts only two months with the first snow arriving in late September. So, we thought, since we've seen this road in the times of cold, why won't we try to travel on it in the summer when the temperaturures quickly rise to + 40°C,...
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Yesterday we celebrated the first ever Polar Explorer Day - a new professional holiday in Russia. Whose day is that? Arthur Chilingarov explains: “Many think that the world’s community of polar explorers is a cozy club. A tiny one, with fancy membership cards. That’s not true. Firstly and most significantly, it is a community of Arctic people permanently living and working in the Far North. They are Arctic’s first and most important explorers – from Greenland to Siberia”.
Two great explorers - one from Greenland and another one from Russia - said that they will unite Arctic peoples.
On...
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